Top Chefs in Germany Criticize Political and Social Stance of Fine Dining
In a rare display of unity, seven of Germany’s most renowned top chefs have spoken out against the political and social stance of the country’s fine dining scene, with a particular focus on Bavarian Minister-President Markus Söder.
At a recent meeting at the Münchner restaurant “Tantris”, the chefs, who collectively hold 18 Michelin stars, expressed their discontent with the lack of recognition and appreciation from the political establishment. Jan Hartwig, a three-star chef from Munich, was particularly scathing in his criticism of Söder, describing him as a “lupenreiner Populist” and saying that while French President Macron invites the world’s top chefs to the Élysée Palace, Söder instead posts about his visits to McDonald’s on Instagram.
The chefs, who included Christian Bau, Jan-Philipp Berner, Edip Sigl, Anton Gschwendtner, Thomas Schanz and Benjamin Chmura, all agreed that the fine dining scene in Germany is often overlooked by the government. Edip Sigl, a three-star chef from Grassau, noted that no prominent politicians are ever seen dining at a high-end restaurant in public, while Söder, who shares his culinary preferences on social media under the hashtag “#söderisst”, has yet to be a guest at any of the participating restaurants.
Despite the fine dining scene’s significant contribution to Germany’s tourist appeal, the chefs believe that the government fails to recognize and support the industry. Christian Bau, a three-star chef from Perl-Nennig, cited the Scandinavian countries as a positive example, where culinary tourism is actively promoted and has led to a boom in the industry. “It’s all because of a few restaurants and modern, effective communication with power” he said.
The chefs’ criticism comes at a time when the German government is investing heavily in tourism and cultural promotion, with millions of euros being allocated for these purposes. However, the fine dining scene, which is a significant part of Germany’s cultural heritage, appears to be largely overlooked in these efforts.